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Historic Landmarks 



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Philadelphia 




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Book. 



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Historic Landmarks 



OF 



Philadelphia 






Copyright, 1899. by Esther M. Thurbcr 



COPIES 



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ID COPY. 



IIXIAM PENN,"lfro«4d:-he"'sail up the Delaware at this date, more than 
two hundred years after planning and ordering the laying out of our 
" Cit}' of Brotherly L,ove," would hardly deem it " a green country 
which will never be burnt and always be wholesome." Noisome odors assail 
ostrils of those who come by water, and there is little in the appearance of 
ster warehouses and tall spires to lead one to think that hidden away between 
upon row of busy hives of industry there are green spots, cool and restful, 
which were laid out under the supervision of Penn himself, and have never been 
encroached upon by the ever increasing volume of commerce which has developed 
in Philadelphia. 

Buildings which the early settlers built and occupied still stand, monuments 
wf liKfiAtiVj^delity and far-sightedness. Some of our staunchest business houses 
w^ere founded, and are still managed by descendants of these sturdy founders of a 
new province, and one can hardly look upon the historic landmarks of Philadel- 
phia without feeling a sense of gratitude to the early fathers, who built so well, 
the foundations of this great city. 

If the thought comes to any that the plan of William Penn, that Philadel- 
phia should be "a green country town," has miscarried, let such an one turn 
in almost any direction and ride half an hour on steam or trolley car, and broad 
and beautiful green fields and imposing country residences will greet and rejoice 
their sight. No other city can boast of fairer homes nor better parks. 






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PENN TREATY PARK. 

WHETHER the storj^ of a treaty of good feeling having been signed 
between William Penn and the Indians, has a foundation in fact or not, 
historians are slow to decide ; but the reputed site was marked for many 
years by a huge elm tree, and after the destruction of the tree the Penn Society 
erected on the spot the first public monument to be set up in Philadelphia. This 
was in 1827, and for many years thereafter no care was taken of the surrounding 
ground ; but within a few j^ears the City has laid out and ornamented a small 
park, at the eastern limit of which a pavillion at the waters' edge makes a charm- 
ing breathing place for the tired mothers and children who live in the vicniity. It 
is interesting to know that the small elms were given b}' the Cooper Estate of 
Camden, and are grown from an elm tree standing in Cooper Park, which is a 
scion of the "Treaty Elm.'" 

The park is at the corner of Beach Street and Columbia Avenue, and can 
be reached by the Gunner's Run trolley' cars east on Girard Avenue, getting off 
at Columbia Avenue and walking two squares. 



THE LETITIA HOUSE. 

WILLIAM PENN'S first residence in Philadelphia was a modest building 
which stood as near as could be in the centre of his plot, which la}' 
between Front and Second Streets on High (now Market) Street and 
extended half wa}' through to Chestnut Street. 

It seems probable that this house was finished in 1682-3, ^^^^ was occupied 
about that time b}' Penn, and when later he had built a more pretentious home at 
Pennsbury, he still made this small house his home whenever he remained in the 
city over night, or for any time. It was used as a counsel chamber and was 
really the first State House of the province. Grave and weighty men of affairs 
of the new province came and went over its threshold and some of the most 
momentous questions of the day were decided within its humble four walls. 

It was finally given to Penn's daughter Letitia, who never lived in it ; and 
for nearly two hundred years the old house was put to many uses, sometimes not 
quite in keeping with the dignity of its first owner ; but finall}- the Cit}' gathered 
it out of its crowded corner in Letitia Street, and removed it to a safe and final 
site in Fairmount Park west of the Girard Avenue bridge. 

It can be reached via Girard Avenue cars, and is open to the public. 



LOGAN SQUARE. 

WHEN Penn laid out his City, which it is said was divided and planned 
like Babylon of old, he made provision for five parks or squares, one in 
the center and one on each of the four corners. The one in the center 
has been named for the founder, that on the south-east corner for Washington, 
the one on the south-west for David Rittenhouse, the inventer and astronomer, 
that on the north-west for James Logan, Penn's Secretary, and the one on the 
north-east for Benjamin Franklin. 

All of these squares have been the scenes of historic events — perhaps none 
more so than Logan Square, which is between Race and Vine Streets at Eigh- 
teenth. For many years the plot was used for a burying ground and for all 
public executions, the last of which was in 1823. In 1864 the Sanitary Fair was 
held here. Since that time the Square has been steadily improved until at this 
date it is a place fair to look upon and is surrounded by handsome residences and 
imposing institutions. 

Penn Square is occupied by the City Buildings at Broad and Market Streets. 

Washington Square is at Walnut and 6th Streets. 

Rittenhouse vSquare is at Walnut and i8th Streets. 

Logan vSquare is at Race, Vine and i8th Streets. 

Franklin Square is at Race, \'ine and 6th vStreets. 



INDEPENDENCE HALL. 

A VOLUME could be written about this most notable of Philadelphia's 
buildings. By a visit to its halls and rooms can one best realize the stir- 
ring events that have taken place within its walls. Historical data, with 
relics and paintings fill its spaces now and no true American ought to be in 
Philadelphia and not spend some hours wandering about among its treasures. 
It was first occupied in 1735. 
Can be reached bv Chestnut Street cars. 



LIBERTY BELL. 

CAN aiiv true American hear without a quickening of the heart-throbs the words : " Liberty 
Bell?'" 
This interesting relic of the ' ' first days ' ' is most sacredly guarded within the hall 
where American Independence was born. 

The tower was ordered to be added to the State House for a bell by the Assembh' in 
February, 1750, and the bell received in 1752 from England where it had been cast at a cost of 

Upon trial it was cracked, and was recast twice, by Pass & vStow of Philadelphia, and 
finally liimg in the steeple in June, 1753. Inscribed upon the bell is an extract from Teyiticus, 
xxy, 10 : " Proclaim Liberty throughout all the land, to all the inhabitants thereof." 

Its yoice was heard upon all great occasions, the crowning one of all being when the 
Declaration of Independence was read from the observatory in the State House yard 
(Independence Square) which had been erected b}- the Philosophical vSociety in 1769 to observe 
the transit of Venus. We can easily fancy that its notes on that memorable Sth of July, 1776, 
were jubilant and brave. Used as a fire bell, and clock bell and an instrument loud and clear 
to voice the sentiments of a coming Nation, until its every note was dear to the inhabitants of 
Philadelphia, steps were taken to preserve and guard it w'hen the British invaded the city in 
1777, — together with the bells of Christ and vSt. Peter's Church taken to Bethlehem, and only 
returned when all danger was over. As a tower bell it was replaced in 182S ; but was still rung 
on very great occasions : in rejoicing when the news arrived of the passage by British Parlia- 
ment of the Act emancipating the Catholics ; in gratitude and thanksgiving upon the centen- 
nial anniversary of the birth of Washington ; cracked while being tolled in the early morning 
in respect for Chief-Justice Marshall, whose body was being borne through the streets 01 route 
to Richmond, Va. ; its sound was thereafter only a doleful echo of its former sweet tones, and 
it again cracked and became forever mute on the 22nd of February, 1843. 

It has been taken to several celebrations in different parts of the country, — to the World's 
F'air at Chicago, in 1892 ; but it is questionable whether it will again make a triumphal pilgrim- 
age : for it is distinctively a Philadelphia relic and is not complete outside the historic surround- 
ings which are to be found in the City of its creation. It now hangs on its beam in a case in 
Independence Hall, at Chestnut, F'ifth, and vSixth Streets. 



CARPENTERS' HALL. 

THE Compain- of Carpenters, who built Carpenter's Hall, was instituted in 
1724, their building was occupied first in 1771, and they gave it to the 
use of the Continental Congress in 1792, since which time, until a very 
few years ago, it has been put to many uses. 

Provincial Conventions were held here ; British troops filled it with the 
sick and dying. The First Bank of the United States, The Bank of Pennsylvania, 
The Second Bank of the United States, and the Custom House, made its walls 
ring with money changing ; The Musical Fund, Apprentices' Library, Franklin 
Institute, the branch of Friends who, under the leadership of Ellas Hicks, repu- 
diated the doctrines of the main body of Friends, occupied the Hall as a meeting 
house in 1827. Later an auction house was found here, and still later, a second- 
hand store ; until, awakening to their privilege the Company rescued their build- 
ing and restored it to nearly its old time appearance and now hold it as relic of the 
storm}' past. 

It is situated at 320 Chestnut Street, back from the street, a narrow 
entrance leading between two lofty bank buildings into the quiet and the long ago. 



THE OLD MARKET HOUSE. 

THE last of the Old Market Houses which once stretched their busy length 
along High Street (now Market), and, as the City grew and spread, 
along Callowhill, Spring Garden and Girard Avenue, will soon decay and 
be removed from Second and Pine Streets, and save for the showing how our for- 
bears were served with food, it will be good riddance : for they were unsightly and 
odorous. 



STENTON. 

THE home of the beloved Secretary to William Penn, James Logan's 
" Stenton ! " Here befeathered Indian warrior and dainty lady in "white 
satin petticoats worked in flowers, pearl satin gowns, or peach colored 
satin cloaks," were eqnally welcomed by the dignified master and his true help- 
mate and wife. 

Still standing, though in a state of decay that makes one heart-sad. 
To reach the house, take Germantown cars on 8th Street and get off at 
1 8th and walk north to Courtland Street. Stenton is the last house on the right 
before reaching the railroad. 

Originally the estate reached from Germantown Avenue to York Road and 
from Wingohocking to Nicetown Lane. 

The part which has recentlj^ come into possession of the City includes 
eight acres near the Family Burying Ground. 



THE SOLITUDE. 

WILLIAM PENN'S grandson, John Penn, came over in 1783 to look after 
his interests in his grandfather's holdings, and in an enthusiastic mood 
bought fifteen acres on the west side of the Schuylkill, and built there- 
on the house which he named, after the estate of the Duke of W'urtemberg's, 
" The Solitude." 

John Penn's stay was of .short duration. He left America forever in 
1789. The Solitude was probably occupied a short time by Governor Richard 
Penn. Granville John Penn was the last of the Penn family to make use of the 
property (in 1851 ), and it is now owned by the City and is enclo.sed in that part 
of the Park system called the Zoological Gardens. 
Can ]k' reached bv the Girard Avenue cars. 



THE FLAG HOUSE. 

ON Arch Street near Third, is the old house in which Betsy Ross made the 
first flag for Washington and a committee, who probably employed her 
as she was at the time carrying on the upholstery business left by her 
husband who had died in the arm}'. 

An effort is being made to preserve the quaint old building, which is well 
worth a visit. 



GLORIA DEI. 

GLORIA DEI or Old vSwedes' Church is situated between Front and Svvanson 
below Christian Street. vServices began to be held in an old block house 
by the Swedes in 1677, and in 1770 the present building was completed 
and occupied and was thought to be a very fine edifice ; was visited by Friends 
and Church People. The Old Church is still used as a place of worship by the 
Swedes, and in the burying ground surrounding it, many noted persons have been 
buried, perhaps the most widely known in his day being Alexander Wilson, the 
ornithologist, who wished to be buried in Old Swedes' church-yard, because " the 
birds would come and sing over his grave." 

Take the Second Street cars to Christian Street. 



SAINT PETER'S. 

CHRIST CHURCH, on vSecond Street above Market, is the oldest Episcopal 
Church in Philadelphia ; but St. Peter's is but a few years more recent, 
Christ Church having been built in 1727-9 and St. Peter's in 1758. 
Both have very interesting histories and have numbered among their mem- 
bers and rectors .some of the very noblest of citizens. 

Washington worshipped in both Churches, and in both, a pew may be seen 
that was occupied by him and his family. 

St. Peter's is at Third and Pine Streets. 

Christ Church Burying Ground where Benjamin Franklin is buried, is at 
I*"ifth and Arch Streets. 



OLD TUNKER CHURCH. 

THE sect known variously as Tunkers, Diinkers, Dnnkaids, Tumblers, 
Dnmplers, Brethren and (Ternian Baptists, have now only two Churches 
in Philadelphia, the older one being on Gerniantown Avenue above Sharp- 
nack Street, a quaint old building erected in 1770. 

Gerniantown Avenue cars on Eighth vStreet nui })ast the place. 



THE MENNONITE CHURCH. 

IN 1863, William Penn invited the Meiinonites, who were being severely perse- 
cuted in Cjernian\-, to become residents of the new province, and they came 
and settled in Germantown, many of them becoming large holders of propert\ 
thereabout. 

Their oldest Church now stands on Germantown Avenue above Herman 
Street, and was built in 1770, as the date on the front, states. Behind the wall, 
which at that time enclosed the graveyard here, lay the man who shot General 
Agnew, the British officer, as he was riding by during the Battle of Germantown. 



ARCH STREET ^*''^E^NG HOUSE. 

TO give a history of Friends in Philadelphia, would be to give a complete 
history of the City from its earliest inception. In every year and every 
movement that is marked by an importance, Friends have had their part 
and left the impress of their character upon every aspect of the City's growth. 

The Meeting House at Fourth and Arch Streets is only one of the tree- 
encircled buildings, set back from the noise of traffic, which may be seen in 
different parts of the City and in fact the whole of Eastern Pennsylvania and in 
New Jerse}'. 

Here the " Yearly Meetings" are held, and at that season one can get a 
truer sense of the dignity and calmness of the body of Friends than at perhaps 
any other time. 

The ground about this Meeting House was used for many years as a burial 
place ; but in accordance with one of the rules of their Meeting, no stones mark 
the resting places of many whose lives have meant so much to our City. 



CONCORD OR OLD AX BURYING GROUND. 

THIS burial place was used first iu the early part of the last century to bury 
such as did not belong to any religious society. John Frederick Ax was 
in charge of it from 1724 until in 1758, when he became too feeble from 
age to perform his duties, and from him, it derived the name " Old Ax Burying 
Ground." 

It is situated on Germantown Avenue above Washington Lane. 
It was also called the " Upper Burying Ground," and now the " Concord 
Burying Ground," from the Concord School House which was built and still 
stands upon a part of the cemetery lot. 

George Lippard the novelist, and a large number of his family, are buried 
here. 



CLIVEDEN. 

THE history of the " Chew Mansion" is known to ahnost every man, woman 
and child in America ; but to look at the btillet scarred walls of the still 
handsome and well kept residence makes great throbs come in one's throat 
and if never before the history of the war has seemed real it will at sight of the 
unmistakable evidences to be seen there. Decapitated statuary stands all about, 
and I confess I had an uncanny feeling that the ghostly bayonets on British guns 
were pointed at me from the grated cellar windows. 

Cliveden, as the mansion is called, stands far back amidst grand old trees 
on Oermantown Avenue, at the corner of Johnson Street. 



THE JOHNSON HOUSE. 

THIS house stands flush with the street at Germantown Avenue and Wash- 
ington Lane. There is an air of magnificent history about the whole place 
that makes one feel instinctiveh' that stirring times have been seen by the 
old house and shaded grounds. It was erected in 176S by John Johnson for his 
son John, and is still occupied by members of the Johnson family 
Here too, may still be seen the marks of angry bullets. 



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VERNON. 

HK John Wistar property in Vernon Park is now occupied as a branch of 
the Philadelphia Free Library, and may be visited by anyone interested. 
It is situated on Gerniantown Avenue just above Chelten Avenue. 



MERMAID INN. 

TWO old l)uildings that have weathered the storms of more than a century 
are the Mermaid Inn and the log house near to it, in Mount Airy, on 
Germantown Avenue, corner of Mermaid Lane. 

One might easily dream while looking at these quaint buildings, they were 
living back in another time for there seems nothing in the vicinity to mar the 
romantic age of the old places. 



THE STATE IN SCHUYLKILL. 

THAT the Forefathers were not always grave and serious is evidenced l)y this 
rehc of their levity, which, after many precarious movings is now, it 
would seem, permanently settled at Eddington on the Delaware. 
In 1732, a party of our ancestors organized a fishing club, calling them- 
selves " The Colonv in Schuylkill " and going, when they pleased, in company 
or singly to fish in the prolific waters of the Schuylkill. This is the oldest 
social club in existence. 

In 1737 they changed the name to " The State in Schuylkill" and erected 
a "Castle "' on land belonging to William Warner ju.st above the spot where the 
Girard Avenue Bridge rests on the western .shore of the Schuylkill. The citizens 
of the State in Schuylkill delivered to William Warner on the first day of every 
June three fresh fish as rent for the land upon which their Castle stood. This 
annual payment of such "enormous" rent was attended with great ceremony 

and state. 

When the dam was built at Fairmount, the waters disturbed the safety of. 
the modest Castle and it was decided to remove it to Rambo's Rock, on the ea.st 
bank of the Schuylkill, and there it remained until a year or two ago, when it 
was again taken apart and moved to Eddington, where it is erected and has the 
same appearance it had nearly two hundred years ago. 

It may be reached by the Bri.stol Boats or by Pennsylvania trains to 
Eddington Station, but from here there is a long walk to be taken. 



RIDGEWAY LIBRARY. 

PHILADELPHIA'S finest and most richly stocked library is a monument of 
the munificent Doctor Rush, erected as a memorial to his wife, Madam 
Rush, nee Ridgeway. Here is deposited the library owned and willed to 
the City by'ja"ies Logan, and many rare and priceless literary treasures are 

here. 

It stands on the corner of Broad and Christian Streets running through to 

Carpenter and Thirteenth. 



JOHN BARTRAM'S HOUSE. 

BARTRAM'S Botanical Gardens are situated on the vSchuylkill River, below 
Gray's Ferry Road. They may be reached via. the Darby cars from 
Walnut Street, getting off at Fifty-fourth and Woodland Avenue, and 
walking about a quarter of a mile east. 

The Garden is now the property of the City and is kept open as a park. 
The old house that Bartram built, it is said, with no outside assistance, still stands 
as he left it, and is a poem of antiquity and quiet, rural, home life. 

Carved on a block of stone which is .set over the window of the room used 
by Bartram as a study are the.se words :— 

" 'Tis God alone, .\lmi,<j^lil}- Lord, 
The Holy One 1)\' me adored. 

John Bartram, 1770." 

One of the most interesting trees in the old garden is a magnificent speci- 
men of the " rarest tree in America," ( Dr. Hotchkin calls it, ) the Mrgilla Lutea. 
It grows sparingly in Kentucky, and is fancifully tliought by some to be the 
" shittim wood" mentioned in the Scriptures. Its wood is ver}^ hard and of a 
bright yellow color, and most interesting, it bears, in the spring, large clusters of 
white flowers, clo.sely resembling the wisteria. 



RS must be seen, this little book is only intended to show by illustration and 
brief description how rich in historical treasures our beloved City of Phila- 
delphia is, and the writer would most earnestly urge all who have been 
interested in this subject to read Westcott's " Historic Mansions," Scharf and 
Westcott's "History of Philadelphia" and Doctor Hotchkin's " Germantown, 
Mount Airy and Chestnut Hill," for fuller and more complete information. 

The volumes deposited in the library of the Historical Society at Thir- 
teenth and Locust Street, would well repay the lengthy examination of every one 
who has time and inclination for such study, and it is to be hoped that all will 
become more interested from looking over this pamplet. 



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Ube %ect>e iPregg 
817 Filbert St. 
Philadelphia. 



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